Brassiere



L. B. COOLEY BRASSIERE 2 Sheets-Sheet J1 INVENTOR [EA/ORE 5. COOLEYTORNEY W 3U, 1950 L, COOLEY BRASSIERE Filed Oct. 25. 1947 2 Sheets-Sheet2 ATTO R N EY Patented May 30, 1950 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 3Claims.

The present invention relates to brassieres and, more particularly, to areadily adjustable brassiere, which is simple to manufacture and whichprovides full support for and separation of the breasts.

Heretofore, it has been necessary to provide a number of bust cup sizesin a line of brassieres to obtain a proper fit in each individual case.Not only a large range of bust cup sizes is necessary, but the garmentitself must be manufactured in several sizes. Heretofore, the number ofsizes of the garment has in general embraced a large series of sizes,namely, from size 32 to size 54, which, however, did not provide theproper general fit of. the garment in all cases. For each size of theseries of sizes, a large number of bust cup sizes is needed. The bustcup sizes are generally three in number. The principal disadvantages ofbrassieres of the prior cut are, therefore, increased costs and thenecessity for providing large dealer stocks.

In accordance with the present invention, it is possible to eliminatethe necessity for pro- Vlding bust cups generally considered as suchand, therefore, bust cups of different sizes. Also in accordance withthe invention, the garment is simple and readily constructed since it ismade up of two principal pieces, plus shoulder straps and closures forholding the garment on the upper body of the wearer. Moreover, inaccordance with the invention, a normal and comfortable position of thebreasts is provided. The means for maintaining the garment generally inthe proper position vertically on the body, for example with respect tothe shoulders, provides separation and lift-up of. the breasts to anormal position. More specifically, where the garment of this inventionis provided with two shoulder straps, adjustment of the shoulder strapon the left-hand side lifts up and holds the right breast in position,and adjustment of the right shoulder strap lifts up and holds the leftbreast in position. The adjustable means for the straps, therefore, havea combined function. They not only maintain the entire garmentvertically in position on the body but provide for youthful separationand up-lift.

The principal object of the present invention, therefore, is to providea brassiere which will fit and support breasts of all sizes.

Another object is to provide a brassiere constructed primarily of twopieces or breast supporting parts.

A further object of the invention is to provide a brassiere having novelbreast supporting means adapted to support a breast of any size innormal and comfortable position, thereby to give the figure line of thewearer a pleasing appearance.

A still further object of the invention is to provide novel adjustingmeans for both the size and lift of a brassiere.

Other objects and advantages of the present invention will, of course,become apparent and immediately suggest themselves to those skilled inthe art to which the invention is directed from the reading of thefollowing specification in connection with the accompanying drawing inwhich:

Fig. l is a view of front elevation of a brassire constructed inaccordance with the invention as it appears when worn.

Fig. 2 is a view of the brassiere of Fig. 1 shown separately.

Figs. 3 and 4 are each a plan view of, one of the two patterns for thetwo principal parts of a brassiere of the present invention.

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but showing a slight modification.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary view similar to Fig. 3, or Fig. 4., showing amodified pattern for one of the parts of the brassiere of Fig. 5.

Referring to the drawings, and for the present to Figs. 1 t0 4, thereof,reference character ID will be employed to represent the brassiere inits entirety. The main part of the garment, that is the bust supportingportion, comprises two pieces of cloth I2 and M which are out inaccordance with the pattern [6 of Fig. 3, and the pattern I! of Fig. 4,respectively. The solid and dotted lead lines of the referencecharacters l2 and [4 as they are used in Fig. 2 indicate portions of,one which overlap and hide the other. Inasmuch as the pattern for Fig. 3is substantially identical with that of Fig. 4, a detailed descriptionwill be given of the pattern N5 of Fig. 3. The piece of cloth 12 cut inaccordance with this pattern is or may be stitched along the lines 18and I9 to form a tuck or dart at 2| (Fig. 2;). The piece of cloth l4also has a tuck or dart 2|. The general location and size of this tuckor dart is not critical, and in some instances it may be omitted. Stitchlines for pleating are indicated at 22 and 23 so as to provide asuitable finish to the garment when tucks or pleats 26, as shown in Fig.1, are taken on these lines. The tab or projection 21 is preferablyprovided (and is repeated in the part 12) to which one end of a shoulderstrap 28 is secured in any suitable manner, for example, by stitching.The end 29 of the cloth (piece l2) out according to the pattern l6, andalso the end 30 of the cloth piece l4 out according to the pattern H,are available for receiving the end of one part of a suitable fasteningor closure means. As shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings this closuremeans comprises a hook 3i and elastic straps 33 provided with a tape 36.The tape 36, or the like, is provided with suitable means such as spacedholes 38 to cooperate with the hook 3| when the garment 10 is worn. Thespacing of the holes 38 provides for adjustment to suit the girth of awearer. It will be understood that any closure means known comprises aninterleaving of the parts.

3 to the art may be used, the hook 3i and the tape 36 being shown by wayof example.

The parts or pieces l2 and [4 are stitched together only along linessubstantially at the darts 2| and cross substantially midway betweenthese stitched lines, as indicated generally by reference character 43of Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings.

Considering the piece l2, it is seen to overlie the left breast of awearer and to lie under the right breast. The shoulder strap 28 issecured to this piece at its tab 21 and to the end 29 of this piece. Itis shown as passing over the left shoulder of the wearer. Suitableadjusting means for adjusting the length of the strap 28 is provided inaccordance with the invention. By Way of exa nple, an adjusting buckle28 is shown. It may be of any type known to the prior art which may beslid along the strap 28 in the usual and known manner to adjust itslength or a loop of its length.

A strap i, similar to the strap 23, is connected to the tab 2'5 on thepiece 14, and this strap is also provided with length adjusting meanssuch as a buckle 52 or its equivalent. Adjustment of the length of thestrap 5 l, which is shown as being on the right side of the garment, asit worn, lifts up and holds the left breast of the wearer. These straps28 and El may be adjusted independently by the wearer after the garmentit is in position so that perfect support and separation resultirrespective of the size of the parts to be lifted, separated and heldin position.

It will be noted that the pieces or parts 12 and M are not twisted inassembly of the garment. These pieces, as shown in Fig. 2, are crossedat 3, as described above. The piece 12 is under the piece it at theregion 3 and the piece i4 is over the piece 12 at the region of 58. Whenthe garment is in use, as indicated in Fig. l, the crossover portion 43lies between the breasts and the points where the pieces i2 and i i areside by side occur substantially at the middle of each breast. Thefabric covers the breast entirely, or the nipple or the nipple regionmay be exposed and the breasts molded into their normal contour.

While stitching has been referred to in the foregoing it will beunderstood that any other means or joining the parts may be practiced,and darts, tucks and the like may be dispensed with if desired. Withadjustability in girth provided the holes 33, or their equivalent, awide range of girth adjustment is possible. Substantially completeadjustment of support is obtainable as stated previously by adjustingthe upward tension of the straps 23 and 51 so that the supporting andconfining portions of the garment will fit the wearer. It is to befurther noted that the garment departs from the usual practice in thatno bust cups as such or parts corresponding to the usual bust cups needbe provided, or are provided in accordance with the invention.

Fig. 5 of the drawings shows a slightly modified arrangement. Inasmuchas many of the parts are similar in Figs. 1 and 5, similar referencecharacters will be used with the suiiix a added. In Fig. 5 there are twomainparts or pieces 12a and Ma. One of these, for example, part lZa isprovided with a slit -52 through which the other part i ia is passedduring assembly of the garment. The cross-over region 430. then Theparts are freely movable with respect to each other at the region 43.

The patterns which are used as guides in' cutdrawings.

ting the cloth of the main pieces are similar to the patterns l6 and I1shown in Fig. 1 of the However, one of these, for example the pattern66, corresponding to the pattern It, for example, is marked with a line68 as shown by Fig. 6 of the drawings as a guide for slitting the clothpiece I2. In view or the foregoing complete description of themodification of Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, it is believed thatfurther description of the modified form of Fig. 5 and its'use need notbe given at this time.

This brassiere is particularly adaptable to broad breasts because itpermits the breast to remain in its normal contour due to theflexibility of the free cross-over of the fabric.

Pendulous or drooping breasts are molded to their normal contour,uplifted and held in place. The methods by which the fabric crosses overin the center front and the straps are adjusted, keep the breastsseparated and held in the correct position.

Young women, participating in athletics, will find the garmentnonconstricting, allowing maximum flexibility and at the same timecontrolling and supporting the breast tissue.

In addition, the brassiere fits perf ctly over normal round and pointedbreasts molding them into their normal contours and supporting them incorrect position with no constriction.

The invention claimed is:

1. A brassiere comprising two pieces of mate" rial, each piece being atleast of a length sub stantially to span the two breasts of the breastregion of a wearer, said pieces being joined adjacent each end insubstantially superimposed overlapping relationship and being crossed atthe center of the brassiere and freely movable at the o n ter withrespect to each other, the end of the 1" st piece overlying the end ofthe second piece at one end of the joined pieces whereby said secondpiece provides supporting means under one breast of the wearer, and atthe other end of the joined pieces with the second piece underlying thefirst piece whereby said first piece provides support under the otherbreast of the wearer, and said brassiere having body encircling means.

2. The brassiere of claim 1 wherein said siere is provided with a pairof shoulder straps. one shoulder strap being connected to the firstpiece of material at a point remote from the end where it providessupport under a breast of a wearer, the other shoulder strap beingconnected to said second piece of material at a point remote .from theend where it provides support under a breast of the wearer, saidshoulder straps being connected to said body encircling means. -3. Thebrassiere having the structure or claim 1 wherein one of said pieces ofmaterial has a slit therein, the other of s'id' pieces passing throughsaid slit at'said crossing.

LENORE B, COOLEY.

REFERENCES'CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,167,992 Guggenheim Jan. 11,1916 1,771,262 Lowenield July 22, 1930 2,131,213 Becker et al. Sept. 27,19.38

' FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date" 411,423 Great Britain May 5'1,193 1

